Lyman Black Powder Recall Notice

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We know Lyman is a popular manufacturer for many Black Powder Enthusiasts, please take time to read this information and check your Lyman Product Serial numbers to ensure you are operating your black powder firearms safely!

Lyman Products Corp. (“Lyman”) is voluntarily recalling black powder rifles and pistols due to the potential of separation in the breech plug. Lyman maintains a safety-first approach, so despite finding only a few firearms affected and no reported injuries, we are offering a recall program to have the issue corrected. Lyman regrets the inconvenience but remains committed to the safety of our customers.

This recall includes black powder rifles and pistols regardless of caliber (including Deerstalker, Great Plains, Great Plains Hunter, Trade Rifle, Plains Pistol, Black Powder Kits, and replacement barrels; excluding Percussion Left Hand Great Plains and Left Hand Great Plains Hunter models) manufactured from March 1, 2017 to December 22, 2017. Barrels with the serial number in the range of A595960–A599026 are subject to this recall.

On their Website, Lyman details 4 simple steps to make sure your Lyman products are safe on the range. Please follow this link to go through the steps.

Safety is our utmost concern here at the NMLRA. Regardless of if your muzzleloader is affected by this recall, please know and understand the dangers of black powder firearms.

Editor’s Message | Muzzle Blasts Vol. 81, #5

The following article appeared first in the January 2020 Issue of “Muzzle Blasts Magazine”, the official magazine from the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association.

Happy New Year! It is always exciting to greet January 1st as it holds all of our dreams and expectations for the coming months. New muzzle loaders to sight in, new loads to explore, and new hopes for Longhunter adventures are just but a few of our wide-eyed hopes. And here at the NMLRA we look forward to the many opportunities to serve our membership through black powder shoots, rendezvous, educational programs, seminars, shooting and sighting in at our world class ranges, and of course our two gatherings during the national shoots. Moreover, our Muzzle Blasts staff can’t wait to bring you the best stories and columns full of muzzleloading equipment; muzzleloading rifle/pistol/shotgun building tips; history; treks; hunts; primitive camping/cooking; trips beyond Friendship and insight into the best information from our muzzle loading culture.

To improve our arrival of monthly MB magazines, we are asking our magazine writers to get their articles/photos to us a week ahead of the previous deadlines. In other words, submit your material by the 25th of two months prior to publication. This allows the USPS time to get the magazines to the members by the 1st week of the month. If you would like a new schedule for submissions, email the office and we will reply with a schedule.

Our old friend (and past editor) Eric Bye brings sage advice to this New Year Muzzle Blasts with his article “Charge!” He writes, “I just bought a dandy antique gun that needs some TLC. At home the first thing I did was remove the barrel from the stock, insert a wooden ramrod as far as it would go, mark it with a pencil at the muzzle, and lay the rod along the outside the barrel to see if it reached all the way to the breech plug face. It stopped almost an inch short, so I re-measured to confirm. Sure enough: there was something inside that barrel.” Obviously, checking the inside of a muzzleloading barrel is not as easy as with a modern gun. But there’s nothing difficult or technical about it, and this article will reinforce the wisdom of making sure there is no charge lurking inside the breech.

Clary Estes brings a heartfelt story to our souls with a story about Rifle Number 42. Growing up with the idea that a gun was equal to art work seemed odd to my peers, but in my house it was always understood. “It’s country boy art is all I can tell you,” my father, Wayne Estes, a talented gun maker in his own right, once told me, but these were no ordinary guns. These were guns that took 60–160 hours to make. They were guns that were meticulously handcrafted by artisans who had spent decades honing their craft. These guns were heavy and loud, shooting off a KA-PANG of smoke with the pull of each trigger, before needing to be cleaned and carefully reloaded with hand molded round lead bullets for their next shot. These were guns that tied men to their American ancestry. These were long rifle muzzleloaders, the guns of colonial America.

There are so many great articles in this issue that it will be hard to decide which to start with first. But if you are me, I always read from the back to the front and am never disappointed. In “Beyond Friendship,” Jim takes us to Union City, Tennessee to visit with the iconic business that gave many of us a nudge down the muzzleloading trail. Dixie Gun Works was officially started in 1954 by Turner Kirkland. He started it as a hobby to make extra money while working as a traveling jewelry salesman after World War II. He would travel from town to town visiting stores to sell jewelry but would ask about any antique guns and gun parts. He bought sold and traded antique muzzle loading gun parts and his car trunk until it became full. He placed a small ad in Muzzle Blasts magazine in October of 1948. He placed a three inch ad at the cost of $3.50; he would make $16 from the orders and his wage as a salesman at the time was $20.00 a week. From there Turner Kirkland’s business would grow and continues to grow until his death on July 26, 1997. Dixie Gun Works has an over 600 page catalog which is loaded with a lot of information. The catalog isn’t just about what is for sale, but it also has a large section with reference tables covering service loads of muzzle loading rifles to muzzle loading cannons; weights and measure tables, including drams to grains to ounces. I always make sure I have a Dixie catalog at my desk.

And if your imagination hasn’t run wild yet, you need to pay attention to Bob Copner’s “The Campaign Horns of Copner!” Yes, this is our Bob Copner who serves as our 1 of 1000 Endowment Fund Chairman. Bob has put together a memorable article detailing how campaign horns had another place in the history of American campaign powder horns . . . in Vietnam!

Bill Carter, Editor of the HCH Horn Book, has given us permission to reprint The Campaign Horns of Copner following the American tradition as it is dedicated to the men and women who have served, or are serving honorably in the Armed Services of The United States of America, especially those who were wounded or WHO gave their lives for their country. The intent of this article is to document that the long- standing American tradition of creating a powder horn, while serving in the military in time of war, was continued in the 20th Century. Copner is quoted, “On July 25, 2009, the powder horn that I made and scrimshawed in 1972, at Ubon Royal Thai Air Force Base (RTAFB), Thailand, while flying a combat tour with the United States Air Force, was awarded the Madison Grant Award at the 2009 Gunmakers’ Fair at Dixon’s.”

Keep yer powder dry!

Dave Ehrig

Hunting the Prarie Wolf - Muzzle Blasts Archives

By Jim Van Eldik

    No that’s not a misspelling; that’s the way the original “Prarie Wolf” chronicler, William Clark, of the famed Lewis and Clark Expedition, referred to them. Though commonly referred to a “coyotes” these days, in honor the Corps of Discovery boys they will be referred to them by the more dignified Prarie Wolf title.

    One might ask, “Why would anyone want to hunt these discreditable creatures?” Admittedly this is not the type of game one normally thinks of for “harvesting” purposes. However, two reasons come to mind. In the dead of winter, these otherwise scruffy, down-at-the-heels looking creatures take on a more agreeable look. A thick whitish grey winter coat sprouts out on their emaciated carcasses admirably suitable for collars and fur hats.

    Second, the Prarie Wolf is one of the most entertaining and challenging game animals one can possibly hunt. I’m convinced in takes little more than a year for a Prarie Wolf’s IQ to surpass that of the average hunter’s - along with his sense of humor (more on this later). However, a successful hunt can be done. What follows will provide you with some sound information on how to hunt these wiley creatures, plus a personal sampling on how one might go about “blowing the shot.”

    A word here on the “where” of Prarie Wolf hunting. For starters - everywhere. Begin by looking under your front porch. To say the least, these little wolves adapt, and are comfortable living close to humans. As far as concentrations go, look first where there is a ready food supply, either carrion, or small, stupid animals. Let me interject here that one of the premier hunting grounds for these varmints used to be Los Angeles -- in particular West Hollywood and Beverly Hills. Here the mangy critters found a rich diet via a ready supply of small dogs (poodles) for their dinner menu. However, things are changing. As of late the movie people are wising up and equipping themselves with antiyote dogs - like Dobermans and massifs. Los Angles is no longer the hunting ground it used to be.

    A note here on using dogs for the hunt. The Prarie Wolf has a peculiar rocking/bounding gait when coursing across the prairie, each bound encompassing about five yards. It also has superior canine stamina. No domestic dog can match the Prarie Wolf’s speed or endurance. However, that doesn’t mean there will not be a chase. Once pursued by one of its canine cousins, the Prarie Wolf, of pure avarice, will slacken its pace maintaining just enough interval to keep the dog committed. By glancing back now and then it will know precisely when the dog’s heart is about to burst, and when it does, little wolf instantly disappears (more on this later).

    Anyway, back to hunting areas, probably the best hunting ground, and the one I always used, is in central Nebraska, viz., the old Oregon Trail. This Prarie Wolf Shangri-La was established by the trail of dead oxen left behind during the post Forty-niner migration west. Yes, the Little Wolves love carrion. In fact it has been asserted that they will eat anything up and including nitroglycerin.* However, this is not true. A Prarie Wolf WILL NOT eat another Prarie Wolf.

    Anyway, central Nebraska still maintains a large Prarie Wolf population. For dietary purposes the oxen carcasses have mostly been replaced by potato chip bags and Pepsi cans tossed out of cars along I-80. They will also eat an occasional newborn calf -- thus, Little Wolf hunters are welcome guests at most central Nebraska farms and ranches.

    As far as armament goes, one might question the use of muzzleloaders for hunting such an elusive game. Well let me say right off that William Clark was perfectly content blasting the Upper Missouri Prarie Wolves with an 1803 Harpers Ferry flintlock rifle. My friends and I have employed a variety of traditional armament including the Numrich swivel breach (providing two shots of course), the T/C Renegade, the Tennessee rifle, and stretching the idea of muzzleloader a bit, the Sharps percussion. This is not the handicap you would think. Almost without exception, every successful hit my friends and I have gotten on the critters has been on the first shot. And virtually all were at a hundred yards or less. Much of the hunting is done via “push” in which case the new lightweight in-lines make a perfect Prarie Wolf gun. 

    Admittedly most of the Prarie Wolves bagged in the hunting magazines are enticed in using “calls.” My friends and I always relied on the old “dying rabbit” call where one blows through a plastic tube producing a sound similar to the noise makers heard on New Year’s Eve. This call works, but it will only work once; the Prarie Wolf has a wonderful memory. These days there seems to be a preference for electronic devices. One of the most popular is called the “Banshee” which I understand uses a recording of Hillary Clinton’s laugh. The downside to calling Prarie Wolves is you never know the direction from which they will approach. One night, while waiting for the Little Wolves in a fence row, I was approached by a herd of cattle on the reverse side of the fence. They came within six feet of me making a terrible racket on the corn shucks. I was not able to observe the cattle due to the thick grass and weeds in the fence row. Later the guys informed me there were no cattle in the field -- it was a actually a lead footed Prarie Wolf sniffing me out. Had I brought my bayonet along I might have taken him with that.

    I have to say I always enjoyed the “sweeps” best. Trekking the wild and wooly Nebraska Sand Hills offers a chance to enjoy the terrain as well as hunt. It also provides a chance for adventure. I recall the time I was hiking along the slope of one of the hills and came to a patch of snow. I started across and immediately plummeted straight down into the snow only stopping my plummet by extending my arms. The snow hid a precipitous ravine I had to swim out of.

    Our “sweeps” composed three or four of us walking abreast encompassing about a half mile interval, and then simply hiking across the prairie. This approach provides lots of action, but not necessarily a lot of “harvested” Prarie Wolves. I recall in one of our early hunts a Prarie Wolf “busted” on the far right. He then passed in front of each of us in turn while we took our best shot at him. Upon completion of his successful run, and safely out of sight, he lit up in joyful song (laugh). Most embarrassing!

    In another incident, while shadowing a deep ravine, my “sixth sense” detected a Prarie Wolf lurking below. I kicked a clod of dirt into the Wolf’s likely hiding place, and out he came. I touched off one of my usual misses as the Little Wolf shot down the ravine. He eventually reached the valley below where he pulled up directly behind one of my friends standing on a knoll, peering off in the opposite direction. The Little Wolf eventually finally my friend and reversed course making off for parts unknown.

    This incident illustrates another point; these fur balls have a terrible time detecting stationary hunters, which accounts for the one adorning my vest in the illustration. This one did the “circle around” drill they habitually use and came directly at me, even though I was standing totally in the open -- but standing on snow in white coveralls.

    A final warning about hunting these critters, best explained with another illustration. I “nicked” a Prarie Wolf one time, and set off following his tracks and blood trail. He was not badly hit, so the trail went on and on and on. Eventually ANOTHER hunter of unknown origin began following the wounded animal. I was unhappy with this, but when a THIRD hunter joined the hunt I was irate. After a while it dawned on me that the boot prints I was following seemed very similar to mine. So I did a comparison and found they WERE mine. I was tracking the Prarie Wolf in a big circle. So I a took another turn around the circuit looking for the exit. There was none! Apparently the Prarie Wolf either ascended, or descended, or employed some other phantasmal move.

    Prarie Wolf hunting is not for the milquetoast.


* See Roughing It by Mark Twain.  

This article was originally printed in Muzzle Blasts Magazine. A digital archive of every Muzzle Blasts magazine is available online to all NMLRA members

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Help with Chronographing my 52 caliber Bench Gun | Ask the Experts

Questions and answers from the NMLRA Facebook Group

“Does anyone have experience using a chronograph with muzzleloaders. I concerned with the unburned powder flash, patching and the smoke's impact on equipment and actuate readings. I have heavy and light bench guns, both .52 calibers that I was thinking about testing But would hate to cause damage to the equipment.s.”

-Chris West

Here are some of the most informative comments from the post.

Tom McEWen said, “I have a tripod mounted and a bayonet style. I have used the tripod style (Caldwell) with no issues. I will not use the bayonet style with a Muzzleloader (again)”

Robert Wetzler - “shooters used to use one put cardboard in front of screen”

Carl Hill Chronograph my 4 bore with a 1500gr. Ball, worked but i’d suggest moving it at least 15 yards away from the muzzle

Terry Sensenig - “I put a small piece of wood over the digital readout to minimize the shockwave. Other than that I feel like I get consistent readings with muzzleloaders. Prior to shooting muzzleloaders I will shoot a pistol through just to make sure the equipment is reading correctly”

Rick Weber- “I ruined a chrono with a felt wad. At 1500fps the conical traveled thru the wire way, but the wad hit face of the display- maybe 25’ away. Bought a LabRadar a few years ago, no problems.”

Ed Radzinski “I use a chrony, don't use skyscreens. Just put a piece of plexiglass over it. Works great.”


If you’d like to join in on the conversation, head on over to our NMLRA Facebook Group! The group is open to anyone who is interested in Muzzleloaders and living history as long as they follow the rules.

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Duelist1954 Builds a York County Flintlock

Popular muzzleloading and black powder youtuber Duelist1954 has been working on building his own York County Flintlock for a while now. In case you’ve missed it, he’s uploaded part 17 this week focusing on his process of inletting the butt plate.

In this update I'll install the butt plate on the York County flintlock rifle.

Developing a load for Lyman Great Plains Hunter Rifles

Questions and answers from the NMLRA Facebook Group

“Does anyone have experience with Lyman Great Plains Hunter rifles? I am looking to get one as a pure hunting gun and wanting to load 250-300gr sabots. Typically using Barnes TEZ/TMZ. Just looking for accuracy, load info, and even some cool game pictures!

-Andrew Ault

Andrew’s question brought up 30 comments one evening. We wanted to share some of the comments, hope it’s helpful!

Here are some of the most informative comments from the post.

Photo Credit to Ted Davis. Lymans Great Plains Rifle 1 in 66 twist. Also comes in Flintlock

Photo Credit to Ted Davis. Lymans Great Plains Rifle 1 in 66 twist. Also comes in Flintlock

“I'm not familiar with the "Great Plains" model, and I don't know the twist ratio. But Lyman had made a model called "The PA Hunter". "PA" stands for Pennsylvania. The rifle had a 1 in 66 twist for roundball. This was produced because the Pennsylvania "primitive" hunting season required a muzzleloader which had flint ignition, open sights, and fired a single "spherical" projectile of .50 cal or greater.
The laws in PA have since changed and the cal is now .45 or greater, and conicals can be used. Flint ignition and open sights are still the rule. Lyman discontinued the PA hunter.
Pennsylvania also has a "muzzleloading" season (which is earlier) when in-lines, and percussion ignition can be used with peep or optical sights” George Hunter”

“My Great Plains 54 is 1:72, I think. For target I use 50 grains of FFF and a hand cast .540 round ball, patched .015. If I decide to hunt deer with it, I up my powder charge to 80 grains. Same with Deerstalker 54. Only the hunting load is 70 instead of 80. Shorter barrel. Both are proven to harvest Michigan Whitetail.” Craig Chambers

Bill Bolen adds, “I have only ever shot bullets in my GP .50 cal and used it to kill a bunch of deer. I have used the Hornady copper jacketed 280-300 gr, Powerbeats, and many others. All shoot pretty well out to 100 yards or so. Lately I have switched to a Great Plains 300 gr all lead that shoots about the best. My hunting load is 90 gr 2f Goex.”


If you’d like to join in on the conversation, head on over to our NMLRA Facebook Group! The group is open to anyone who is interested in Muzzleloaders and living history as long as they follow the rules.

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The Ashley Hawken Part I - Muzzle Blasts Archives

By Bob Woodfill

The Ashley Hawken was built specifically for General William Henry Ashley, by Jacob and Samuel Hawken, to defend his keelboats from hostile Indians, as the fur traders went up the Missouri River to establish trading posts. The rifle needed to be capable of shooting farther than the trade guns used by the Indians, who would often shoot down from the overhanging banks along the river, as the keelboats passed. Therefore, a ‘Super Hawken’ was built that could throw a one ounce ball with accuracy beyond 200 yards.


The year was 1822. General Ashley and his partner William Henry, had placed the famous advertisement in the St. Louis newspaper on February 13, for “one hundred enterprising young men, to ascent the Missouri River to its source and be employed for one to three years trapping for furs”. The men who responded to the ad eventually became the who’s who of the American fur trade, including such greats as Jim Bridger, Hugh Glass, Jedediah Smith, William Sublette, David Jackson, James Clyman, Jim Beckwourth and Thomas Fitzpatrick

In April 1822, Henry and the free trappers, who responded to the newspaper advertisement, ascended the Missouri River to the mouth of the Yellowstone River in a keelboat, and later established Fort Henry near the Montana-North Dakota state line. A second boat with their supplies for the winter left St. Louis one month later, but sank only 300 miles up river from St. Louis. A dispatch was sent to General Ashley in St. Louis who in 18-days, obtain credit and assembled another supply boat. This time Ashley went with the supply boat and arrived at Ft. Henry in October. Able to supply the fort, he left Fort Henry and returned to St. Louis to prepare for the 1823 season.

Keelboats, which displaced only about two feet of water, were often used by the fur traders on the shallow waters of the Missouri River. They were usually from 40 to 80 feet long, and were built with a strong central keel that helped deflect obstacles in the shallow water. Except for a rare day in which the sail was useful, they were either rowed, poled or pulled upstream by the crew of 20 to 30 men. 

Swivel cannons were often utilized on river boats for short-range defense. They ranged from 18” to 36” in length and had a smooth bore from one to two inches in diameter. This bore was quite suitable for a hand-full of musket balls, but only effective for short-range defense. The Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804-1806 had a swivel gun mounted on the bow of their keelboat by Captain Clark, but it was never used. 

It was probably during the winter of 1822/23, after returning from his first trip up the Missouri River, that General Ashley commissioned the Hawken gunsmithing shop to build a Super Hawken, to help combat the continuing harassment of his keelboats by the Indians. The gun was to be designed for long-range shooting, and capable of reaching with accuracy the numerous river bluffs, which lie above the Missouri River.

We know only three things for certain about the Ashley Hawken from information given in a 1882 newspaper interview with Sam Hawken. First, it was built by the Hawken shop for General Ashley. When Sam Hawken gave the newspaper interview, he was 90 years old, and was very ‘inclusive’ in his remembrance of the early years. In 1821 Jacob was listed in the first city directory as a gunsmith. Sam arrived in St. Louis on June 3, 1822, a year later. Sam simply recalled that “We supplied the gun to Ashley”.

I don’t believe that it has been pointed out before, but this rifle would have been J.&S. Hawken rifle Serial #1, or the first rifle built with the combined talents of both Jacob and Samuel Hawken. In the newspaper interview, Sam called it a “Super Rifle”, because it fired a one ounce ball from a three and one-half foot long barrel. These basic specifications leave considerable room to speculate about all of its features, but some other clues can help us determine its probable configuration.

Jacob Hawken came to St. Louis in 1819, after working from 1808-1818 at the Harper’s Ferry Arsenal in Virginia. He was very familiar with the strong and weak features of the U.S. Model 1803 Harper’s Ferry rifle and later models of U.S. Government rifles. He watched as brass fittings gave way to stronger steel fittings. The caliber of the Government models was increased to 69-caliber to extend their effective range. The barrels of the latest 1821 Models were round and a full 42” long.

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When Jacob Hawken came to St. Louis, he and James Lakenan, another gunsmith who had worked at the Richmond, Virginia armory, shared a log house from 1820 to 1825. Jake, and later Sam, were both influenced by the Virginia gunsmith James Lakenan, and the iron-mounted rifles which originated from the Virginia region on the east coast. The Super Hawken that was to be built for Ashley would naturally be the product of Jake Hawken and James Lakenan’s experiences during their many years working at the armories.

A fourth, and often unmentioned feature of the Ashley Hawken, is that it was a flintlock. Irrespective as to when the percussion cap was originally invented in Europe, they were first seen on the east coast in 1825/26, and later first advertised for sale in St. Louis in 1831. The Ashley Hawken predated the introduction of the percussion cap in the St. Louis area, and it was a flint ignition rifle. Because of Jake’s familiarity with the 1803 through 1821 U.S. Government rifles, he would have probably chosen one of the large and dependable flint locks that were used on the U.S. Springfield musket models.

As reported in the August, 1976 issue of the The Buckskin Report, there was an earlier attempt to build a rendition of General Ashley’s 69-caliber flintlock Hawken. Such notables of the time combined their talents to make John ‘Dinglehoofer’ Baird a copy of Ashley’s Hawken. They were Andy Baker (stockmaker), Bill Large (barrel maker), Tom Dawson (flintlock), Bob Roller (triggers), Jack Haugh (trigger guard), Bill Fuller (buttplate), Randy Cochran (wood) and Tony Lageose (engraving). The finished rifle weighed 11.75 pounds and boasted a 37-1/2” long octagonal barrel with a thickness of 1.1875” at the breech and 1.0625” at the muzzle. The full-stocked rifle was exhibited and fired at Friendship, IN with a 0.690” diameter round ball, a 0.016” thick denim patch, and 160 grains of GOI 2FFg black powder. Its power and recoil were impressive…!

Pictures of this rifle shows its styling be more representative of an early J.&S. Hawken full-stocked rifle with iron fixtures. I believe that a better interpretation of the original rifle can now be made. Before starting my recreation of Ashley’s Super Hawken, I consulted with Don Stith, Bob Roller, and other Hawken bugs of today. The following is my reasoning for selecting the rifle’s basic components.

Caliber--In Sam Hawken’s 1882 newspaper interview, he says that Ashley’s Hawken threw a one ounce ball. Technically, a one ounce ball would weigh 437.5 grains or be about 0.660” in diameter. In the literature, I have seen the caliber quoted from everything from 66 to 69-caliber. The U.S. Springfield Musket--Model 1821, the last flintlock musket procured by the U.S. Army, was a 69-caliber smooth-bore. I believe that Sam’s reference to a ‘one ounce ball’ would refer to the 69-caliber ball which was the norm of day, and used in the most advanced long-range muskets made prior to 1822.


Barrel--According to Sam Hawken, the barrel was three and one-half feet (42”) long, or the same length as the U.S. Springfield Musket--Model 1821. This length of barrel would be required to get adequate velocity from a 69-caliber ball for long-range shooting. To obtain the accuracy required at 200 yards, the barrel would have had to be rifled. Jake knew that an octagonal barrel was stronger than the round barrels that were used on the the U.S. muskets, and as a bonus, it would add some weight to the rifle to lessen felt recoil.


Lock--I believe that Jake would have used a flint lock similar to or taken off one of the U.S. Springfield Model 1803 to 1821 models. They were large and dependable--using a large musket-sized flint to produce a massive amount of sparks. These locks utilized a reinforced hammer to strengthen the hammer, hereby giving a smaller chance of breakage with repeated, hard use.


Buttplate--I believe that Jake would have used a flat iron buttplate as was standard on the military models. A flat buttplate would have lessened the effects of felt recoil much better than the crescent-type buttplates used on Kentucky and later Hawken rifles.


Triggers and Guard--I believe that Jake would have wanted to incorporate a double-set trigger system on the rifle to enhance precise shooting at the longer distances. To accommodate the double-set triggers, an English-style trigger guard with a large bow was probably used.


Stock--The U.S. Springfield Model 1821 used a full-length stock with its 42” barrel. Jake would have given the stock a more Tennessee-type stock design with a thinner wrist to incorporate the double-set triggers, all in combination with a long tang for added strength. Either American walnut or maple would be suitable. A small patchbox similar to the 1803 Harper’s Ferry, but made of steel, would be appropriate for that period and for the Rocky Mountains!


In Part II, I will detail the construction of a rifle to match the known and proposed features of the Ashley Hawken.

This article was featured in Muzzle Blasts magazine in July 2017. A digital archive of Muzzle Blasts magazines from 1939 to present is available to all NMLRA members.

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Top 10 things you need to know about your new Muzzleloader

If, like many of us Santa brought you a new Muzzleloader or muzzleloader kit, you’ll be spending the next few weekends tinkering with it. This list is brought to you courtesy of the NMLRA Facebook group to give you the best tips and tricks to break in your new muzzleloader safely.  

#1 Read the manual

Whether you are familiar with modern firearms or not, muzzleloaders are a different animal.

We recommend that you read the manufacturer's manual that came with your new muzzleloader, if one is not available, please go online and find the digital version at your manufacturer’s website. Manuals will give you correct loading procedure and load data for your firearm. 

If you have added a new custom built muzzleloader to your collection, be sure to communicate with the builder about safe load measurements. If your builder is not available, please reach out to some online forums or facebook groups and ask the folks there

#2 Don’t assume your local sporting good stores know black powder

    It can be hard to find real black powder, but it is very important to remember that Pyrodex, Trip 7, etc is not blackpowder. We don’t advise ever using smokeless powder in your traditional muzzleloader. Smokeless Powder is more explosive than traditional black powder. Using Smokeless in your traditional muzzleloader can result in serious injury or death. 

    If you are having trouble finding real black powder in your area, as it is not carried in many gun shops or sporting goods stores, be sure to check out the list of authorized dealers from both Schuetzen Black Powder, and Goex Black Powder. NMLRA Members also receive a discount on black powder from both Goex and Swiss if you purchase on NMLRA Grounds. 

#3 Keep your Powder away from your shooting area 

    It’s important to remember that any container holding black powder is highly explosive. Many newcomers make the mistake of leaving their black powder can near there firing position or bench, not realizing that a percussion or flintlock firearm can throw sparks around the area. If one of these sparks hits your powder can, you won’t want to be within 50 yards of it! 

#4 Of all the laws you must recall. First the powder, then the patch and ball.

    It can seem very simple, 3 steps between shots, nothing fancy, just a lot of ramrodding, but you’ll be surprised how often you can mix them up if you aren’t focused. 

    Always pay attention when you are loading your new muzzleloader, you don’t want to accidentally double load your powder, patch or your ball. It won’t just mess up your grouping, but it could seriously injure your rifle and you! 

    On our ranges though, the most often forgotten step in the powder, resulting in a fair amount of heckling as we work to pull the ball.

#5 Load Safely

    Remember, you are handling an explosive powder each time you load your muzzleloader.

 Never load a muzzleloader’s powder straight from your powder horn or powder can, always use a measure. This ensures a repeatable load for more accurate shooting, but it also keeps you safe from any rogue sparks that could ignite your powder. 

#6 Mentorship

If you haven't been around muzzleloaders much it can be very daunting. Don’t hesitate to reach out to a local shooting club or gun shop for some help. We’ve got a list of Official NMLRA Charter Clubs as well as Field Representatives all over the United States that are trained to answer your questions. 

Our facebook group is packed with over 4,000 members of all skill levels, reach out there anytime and you’ll receive many great responses.  

#7 Is it loaded? 

    Like all firearms, it is paramount you behave that every muzzleloader is always loaded. If you aren’t sure, there are a couple steps you can follow to check. 

  1. Point the Muzzleloader in a safe direction

    1. Flintlocks - Open the Frizzen and place the hammer in the down position. 

    2. Percussion Locks- Ensure there is no percussion cap or remains of a percussion cap on the nipple. Keep the hammer in the down position over the nipple or put the hammer on Half cock with a washer over the nipple. 

  2. Remove your ramrod and place it down the barrel until the ram rod cannot go in any further. Mark the spot on your ramrod flush the muzzle. We recommend a permanent marker or a piece of tape for accuracy. 

  3. Remove your ramrod from the barrel and place it alongside the barrel of your muzzleloader so the line you marked is in line with the muzzle, and the base is pointed back towards the area described below 

    1. Flintlock Firearm: The touch hole, or flash hole, located on the side where the ignition spark reaches the charge

    2. Percussion Lock Firearm: The drum area, located on the side of the breech

    3. In-line Firearm: The breech plug

    4. You should be familiar enough with your firearm to know if there is a cavity in the breech plug that will allow powder between the rod tip and the flash hole.

    5. If there is a cavity, check to see if it is filled with powder. Insert a .22-caliber ramrod, made of brass or other non-ferrous metal, into the bore until it stops.

    6. Remove the rod, and measure along the outside of the barrel to see if the rod tip reaches the flash hole of the breech plug. If the rod reaches the flash hole, the muzzleloader is empty and has no projectile or powder in the barrel.

  4. If a projectile or powder is inside the barrel, use a CO2 discharger to clear the barrel. Then reinsert the range rod into the barrel to make sure the projectile and all powder have been removed.

  5. After you are certain the firearm is empty, insert the range rod back into the barrel. Make a permanent "unloaded" or "empty" mark on the rod at the spot where the rod exits the muzzle. You now can use this mark to verify whether the barrel is empty whenever the range rod is inserted.

Source

#8 Cleaning your muzzleloader 

    You can find countless online forums and comment threads discussing how often to clean your muzzleloader. Should I clean after every shot? After an hour? After a day?

    Well, there isn’t really a rule. Many of our competitive marksmen will clean their barrels after each shot to make sure each shot is as accurate as possible. If you are plinking at your home range, you can get away with a few shots before cleaning. 

    Like all modern firearms, it’s important to clean your muzzleloader well after each trip to the range. Swab down the barrel with your preferred cleaner and wipe down the exterior as well to prevent rust. 

#9 Always do your research

    Youtube is a great resource for just about everything on the planet, but when it comes to handling black powder, always triple check the information presented in the video. 

    We recommend this video from The Black Powder Maniac Shooter as a good starting point for a flintlock. Hickok 45 also has several good videos on muzzleloaders. 

#10 Safety Safety Safety 

    We all know Eye Protection and hearing protection are important when shooting modern firearms, with muzzleloaders you’ll hear the same. Eye protection is especially important when shooting a sidelock muzzleloader, the ignition explosion on the exterior of the firearm, and near your face. Shrapnel from percussion caps or your flint can easily find its way into your eyes. 

We hope this helps you get started in the world of muzzleloaders! We hope you’ll find your new muzzleloader one of the favorites of your firearms collection, I know we do here at the NMLRA.

Don't let the Shooting get in the way of the fun | A conversation with Author and Historian Tom Schiffer

This week's podcast is a little different, we are sitting down with Author and Historian Thomas Schiffer about "The History of the NMLRA" and early 1900s Muzzleloading. 

Tom has always been a family friend at the range, but I never knew about how much he cared about history. History of the United States, World War 2, and the NMLRA. In 2017 he began writing "The History of the NMLRA", a comprehensive history on the origins of the NMLRA. You'd imagine this book is full of board minutes and photos of men in suits shooting chunk guns, but Tom quickly found out that history isn't so much about the paperwork as it is about the personalities involved. 

Tune in to this episode to hear more, I'm not going to spoil it for you. 

Check out Tom's Book, on sale now

This week's podcast is a little different, we are sitting down with Author and Historian Thomas Schiffer about "The History of the NMLRA" and early 1900s Muzzleloading. Tom has always been a family friend at the range, but I never knew about how much he cared about history.

Listen on Itunes

This month was a little slow on releases with the Christmas rush, but we've got an action-packed January planned. We'll be talking to Mark Humphries of the "Black Powder Maniac Shooter" Youtube Channel at his Annual New Year's Day Shoot. We'll also be heading out to the SHOT Show in late January to bring you Muzzleloading focused coverage of the event.

A special thanks this week to the guys at Primitive Pursuit for sponsoring the podcast! Primitive Pursuit was founded in 2017 to be an outlet for learning experiences as a traditional bowhunter.  The truth is, someday’s it will throw you to the wolves.  However, when the gap is closed and you’re finally able to take your shot, it’s all worth it.  Everything comes  together.  Though we’re relatively new to the game, we feel it is our  duty to help those that may go through similar successes and failures.   We truly believe traditional bowhunter’s are among the best hunters in the world.

We couldn't have this conversation, the podcast or anything here at the NMLRA without the support of our members. Everything we do is made possible because of their generosity. Thank you. 

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The Versailles American Legion Junior Shooting Sports Program December 2019

The team is home for the holidays, but we wanted to share their great scores from early December.

Sat. Dec. 14th. Shoot in Shoals, In. Philip Baumgartner and Gabe Block took Ribbons in class positions

In prone--1st. Richie Block, 2nd. Emilee Seitz, 3rd. Trenton Franklin

In standing--1st. Mollie Holt, 2nd. Richie Block, 3rd. Tanner Franklin.

In. kneeling--1st. Richie Block, 2nd. Trenton Franklin, 3rd. Maggie Holt.

Top Gun for the day--1st. Richie Block, 2nd. Tanner Franklin, 3rd, Maggie Holt.

Top Shooting Team of the day--Versailles American Legion.

Great shooting everyone, enjoy your time off!

Mississinewa 1812 | New videos from Muzzle Blasts!

Join us this week for “Muzzle Blasts on the Road”! We’re sharing two videos from Mississinewa 1812 from October 2019.

Mississinewa 1812 is a historical commemoration of the Battle of Mississinewa fought in Grant County, Indiana. The two day battle was fought on December 17-18, 1812 in bitter cold conditions and 11 inches of snow. We'd like to thank the Mississinewa Battlefield Society for allowing us to come film at the event.

In our second video, we sit down with Margaret Bickenheuser to talk about Colonial American baskets. Margaret is a renowned basket weaver, her work has been featured in Early American Life on several occasions. You can view her website here- http://www.mylittlebasketshop.com/

How to Stain a Cabela's Kit Muzzleloader

Questions and answers from the NMLRA Facebook Group

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“So I pulled the Trigger and decided to purchase the 50. Cal, Kentucky from Cabela's today, as a Christmas gift for my son, he prefers shooting black powder long gun's more so than modern firearms, because of his interest in Civil war history, I think it will make an excellent father and son experience together, my question for y'all is, what type of wood stain application should I use, and what methods are best for applying the stain to the stock? Thanks.”

-Daniel Colt Foely

This question from Daniel racked up about 40 comments over the weekend, many of them very helpful to new builders, so we wanted to share them!

Here are some of the most informative comments from the post.

Larry Rowland said, “Get "Homar Dangler's" stains and finishes, is my suggestion. Follow the directions.”

WL McCoy brought up, “ Lowe’s has an oil based colonial maple that I like. You could add a little walnut if you like darker. Hand rub with old T-shirt material. Cotton.”

Dale Pederson suggested Laurel mt. “Makes some good stains. You cad find them at Track Of The Wolf.”

Mike Dollinger said, “ I used shoe polish on my 1st gun. I used homer dangles stain on another. Aqua fortis on another”

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Rob Scroggins added, “ I built mine a couple years ago. Used minwax stain (dark walnut) and tung oil as a finish”. He included a photo as well.

“If its plain wood and your first gun, get fiebings leather dye in alcohol not oil. Its easy, dries instantly and med brown is a great color with a reddish tinge and dark brown is pure brown. Birchwood caseys tru oil is a foolproof beginner finish. If you want to go the authentic route it would be aqua fortis, heat and oxidized linseed oil but hard to master. When you assemble this there are some shapes you can modify that will really improve this rifle if you just ask there are a lot of people here to help guide you.” - Mike Davis

Josh Young took a simpler approach, Plain old boiled linseed oil never hurt no one.

And a special thanks to Paul Luttrell for his notes and story on building a similar kit. “This was like my first kit build, in. 45. Brown leather dye worked guite well for me. It actually produced a reddish tint on the stock, after final sanding, of course. I rubbed in several coats of "boiled linseed oil", rubbing in with my palm until warm then wiping off excess oil after each coat and letting it dry. The choice is yours, of course, there is a myriad of stains and techniques.
A friend of mine tried Dixie Gun Works' suggestion of soaking a bag of chewing tobacco in ammonia, letting it sit for several days before applying with an old piece of T-shirt, then rubbing in Tung oil. That was on a cherry stock.”


If you’d like to join in on the conversation, head on over to our NMLRA Facebook Group! The group is open to anyone who is interested in Muzzleloaders and living history as long as they follow the rules.

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Muzzle Blasts Podcast

New Video from Ramshackle Homestead & Survival with Keith and Jen

It’s nice whenever there is a new movie or TV show that works to accurately portray American history and Muzzleloading, but those productions are few and far between. We’re so glad youtube has come along and allowed people like Keith and Jen to produce the muzzleloading media we crave and make it readily accessible.

Check out their latest video on hunting squirrels and other small game with a group of their longhunter buddies and subscribe while you are there to help support this great channel.