An original Augusta County Virginia | Original Flintlock from 1750’s

Longrifle made in Augusta County, Virginia Circa 1750s. This is a quintessential Virginia frontier workhorse rifle, which likely saw more than a century of service. At .62 caliber, it has an extremely large bore for a rifle. It is a rare example of a French and Indian War era rifle, in a conflict and time mostly comprised of smoothbore guns.

This is a very early relief carved longrifle attributed to Augusta County, Virginia School of longrifle gunsmiths. Possibly made by John Hannah, Augusta County Gunsmith or from the Augusta County Gun Factory in Staunton, VA. It is very possible that it was made by John Hannah. John was among the earliest gunsmiths known to have worked in Augusta County, Virginia. Prior to 1739, the Hannah family settled in Augusta County on land southwest of Staunton, Virginia on Colliers Creek (Colliers Creek lies southwest of Lexington, VA in present day Rockbridge County).

They settled on land acquired from Benjamin Borden who had been the recipient of the Borden Land Grant in 1738. In 1754, John Hannah agreed to teach his indentured servant, John Mitchell, the art of a blacksmith and gunsmith. In 1768, John built a mill on Colliers Creek.Based on his inventory of tools recorded after his death in 1782, he was a blacksmith, white-smith, silversmith, and gunsmith. Early southern wooden patchbox longrifles attributed to a Virginia maker are rare.

This longrifle was owned for many years by George Shumway. There is wonderful early carving on the check piece and the longrifle retains a period patchbox lid which may be the original patch box cover. The check side of this longrifle was subjected to heat from a fire in George Shumway’s home. The damage to the wood was minimal and the wood was sucessfully stabilized after the fire.

The lock was converted to flint by Alan Guthchess (Curator at Fort Pitt). Alan commented that this was his favorite “frontier longrifle”. This longrifle was on display at Fort Pitt in their renowned French and Indian War display, “Captured by Indians” in 2015 – 2016, along with the original spike tomahawk I posted yesterday.

Thank you John H Bryan for sharing this rifle

What’s on your workbench, Malachiah Pifer?

Good morning from the workbench of Malachiah Pifer, student of gunsmith Mike Miller. We’ve been watching Malachiah’s progress for a while now. It’s great to see a young man pursuing this craft with such enthusiasm and skill.

Thank you for sharing Malachiah, and thank you Mike Miller for passing on your craft.

Thank you Jeff Luke for running the “Traditional American Craftsman” Facebook group for craftsmen of all skill levels and experience to share work and discuss traditional craft.

How to Load a Muzzleloader

We wanted to bring this illustration out from the Muzzle Blasts Magazine archives. Commissioned in 2015, we’d like to thank Larry Small for illustrating this great diagram.

How to load a Muzzleloader

1. Make sure the bore is dry by using a ramrod with a cleaning jig and a clean, dry patch.

2. With the hammer down for safety, clean the frozen, pan, and flint (watch out for the sharp edges of the flint). Be sure the flash hole is clear of obstruction by inserting a vent pick, paper clip, or pipe cleaner. Load a flintlock with the frizzen and hammer all the way forward.

   1. For a percussion firearm, inspec the nipple for obstruction by using a nipple pick or paper clip. With an unloaded firearm, snap a cap or two. Always point the muzzle in a safe direction.

3. Pour the powder from a powder horn or flash into a measure. For safety, never pour powder directly into the bore from a horn or flask.

4. Pour the measured powder charge down the bore. Avoid placing your hands or face directly over the muzzle.

5. Center a lubricated or moistened patch over the bore and place the lead ball onto the patch.

6. With the short end of a short starter, set the patched ball into the bore. Use the Pam of your hand to press the ball into the muzzle.

7. Push the ball deeper with the long end of the short starter by using the palm of your hand.

8. Firmly seat the load against the powder charge by using short strokes with your ramrod. NEVER fire a muzzleloader if the ball is not firmly seated on the powder charge.

9. Use a pencil to make a reference mark on your ramrod when the lead ball is correctly loaded.

10. Remove the ramrod and store it under the barrel.

11. For a flintlock, fill the pan 1/4 to 1/3 full of priming powder, place the hammer into the half- cock position, and close the frizzen. When ready to shoot, bring the hammer into full cock position.

    1. For a percussion muzzleloader, bring the hammer into the half-cock position and place a cap firmly onto the nipple. When ready to shoot, place the hammer at full cock.

12. Be certain of your target and what lies beyond. Aim and fire.

13. Run a damp cleaning patch down the bore and begin the process again, no need to repeat step #9

Flintlock tips for the field from Ramshackle Homestead with Keith and Jen

We love following Ramshackle Homestead with Keith and Jen on Instagram, and they've just released a new video on Flintlock tips for the field!

Check it out -

Easy tips, tricks and pointers to make hunting with a flintlock a little smoother.